New fire in Torres del Paine

by Marcela Torres

We are ending 2011 with sad news as a result of the irresponsibility of a tourist. A new fire is affecting Torres del Paine National Park, which has burnt 5,700 hectares (14,085 acres) of vegetation and has forced authorities to evacuate tourists and close the national park, as you can see in the video.

Once more, this disaster reminds us that greater precautions need to be taken to practice responsible tourism in protected areas, in order to avoid damaging them and ensuring they can be enjoyed by future generations.

The Government of Chile, through its Ministry of Interior and the National Emergency Office (ONEMI), is working to contain the fire and looking for support from specialized firefighting units. It is very difficult to control fires in Torres del Paine, however, because the strong Patagonian winds propagate fires very quickly.

I’ve already discussed in a previous blog the need to practice responsible tourism at the national park and to be careful with bonfires that are lit during the night. However, it seems necessary to take more extreme measure to prevent and mitigate the impacts of tourism in Torres del Paine.

Among other measures, it would be wise to forbid camping in the national park. There are already enough places to stay in within the park and more alternatives can be promoted in the nearby town of Torres del Paine. Apparently there is also a need for greater resources to patrol the area and control tourist activity.

In this context, it is worthwhile to remember that the National Forestry Corporation (CONAF), the government agency in charge of managing protected areas in Chile, has clear regulations for visitors that can be downloaded from the website in Spanish and English. It seems worthwhile to be reminded of some of them to make sure that we act as responsible tourists when visiting a natural area:

• Follow the instructions given by the park rangers, including times for visiting, signs and maintenance of facilities in the Protected Wilderness Area.
• Follow rules for safety. Walk only along marked trails and roads. In case you are planning a long hike, do not go alone, and take the appropriate equipment and clothes. Inform the park rangers about the route and time of return of your trip.
• Make fires only in the places provided for doing so. After making a fire, put it out using large amounts of water. Wildfires and people with a careless attitude are always a potential danger to nature.

We hope that measure are finally taken and that tourists be more careful so that we will not have to witness another disaster such as this one in a place that attracts thousands of domestic and foreign visitors each year because of its unique beauty, wildlife and fantastic trails.

Season's greetings from Southern Cone Journeys!

How to Reduce Your Carbon Footprint When Traveling

The expansion of deserts is one of the effects of climate change.

© Marcela Torres

By Marcela Torres

While governments and industry representatives struggle to reach agreements on how to stop global warming at the 17^th Conference of the Parties (COP) of the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change in Durban, South Africa, I thought it might be useful to give some good tips on small but significant contributions we can make as travelers.

·    Choose a Responsible Company: When planning your trip, choose travel companies that employ local workers and guides or source locally grown produce and local services. This is a good way to support the local economy.

·    Unplug While Away: Before you leave home, remember to turn off the lights as well as the air conditioner/heater and unplug all household appliances that can be left unplugged while you are away.

·    Treat the Place as Your Home: Take care of the environment when on holiday as if you were at home. Always use garbage can to dispose of trash. If there are no bins in the area, take the litter with you and throw it once you find a bin.

·    Avoid Plastic Bottles: Instead of buying bottled water, carry your own refillable water bottles and use the hotel’s potable drinking water supply.

·    Save Water: Water is scarce in many destinations. Use the minimum amount of water needed for a shower/bath, don't let water run while shaving, brushing or washing, and check if the hotel has a linen reuse program - if so, reuse your towels and bed sheets by placing the card to indicate you don't wish to have them washed every day, if not, request hospitality staff not to change them every day.

·    Choose Public Transport: Use public transportation (bus, train, taxis, etc.) as much as possible. It's a more sustainable way to get around.

·    Walk Around: Instead of renting vehicles, take time to walk around. You will not only do some exercise and help the environment, but you will also get to know better the place you are visiting.

·    Avoid disposable batteries: Whenever possible, buy rechargeable batteries for your essential travel items such as cameras, razors, and flash lights.

·    Eat Local: Trying local food is a good way to learn about the culture of the place you are visiting. Visit a local farmer's market, shop at a locally owned grocery store and choose locally owned restaurants, since they usually will buy local produce and that means less fuel was consumed to transport the product.

Air Travel

Air travel is one of the big issues discussed during all climate change Conferences of Parties meetings and significant progress is never achieved. I have already talked about the impact of air travel in a previous blog, but since at present there is no adequate regulation for it and flights are sometimes unavoidable, the responsibility lies mostly on the tourists themselves to minimize their impact.

Some good tips to consider are:

·    Avoid Stops: Fly the most direct route possible and try to avoid short hops by air, because take-offs and landings use the most fuel.

·    Fly Economy: More people in a plane will result in fewer emissions per person.

·    Avoid Night Flights: Fly during the daytime, because during the night the condensation formed from jet-fuel exhaust remains in the atmosphere much longer due to the cool night air.

·    Pack Light: By reducing the weight of luggage, you will help the planes burn less fuel.

·    Longer Stays: Try to stay longer in a destination instead of making many short trips.

·    Offset the Unavoidable Footprint: Make your trips "carbon neutral" by contributing to a credible carbon offsetting program that supports conservation, renewable energy, and other environmental projects. A few airlines have these schemes in place and will offer them to you when you purchase. If yours doesn’t, some non-governmental organizations such as The International Ecotourism Society and Sustainable Travel International have reliable carbon-offsetting programs.

Travel and Volunteer Teaching English in Chilean Schools

English Opens Doors volunteer with students. 

© This is Chile

 

By Marcela Torres

One of the best ways to experience a local culture is volunteering and spending quality time with the host communities. That’s what the English Opens Doors program, a joint initiative of Chile's Education Ministry and the UN Development Program, offers native English speakers at schools all over the country. Applications for 2012 are open until December 15, 2011.

So, what’s this all about? The Program is currently looking to recruit qualified native and near-native English speakers between 21 and 35 years old to teach English in Chile under the direction of head teachers in public and semi-private schools. Since it began in 2004, English Open Doors has recruited more than 1,300 volunteers from several countries including the United States, Canada, Australia and the United Kingdom.

Volunteers can select from a broad range of programs lasting from five to 11 months, with start dates from February through July. Full-time volunteers are expected to spend 25 hours a week in the classroom with an additional 10 hours of activities - six hours for classroom planning and four hours participating in extracurricular activities such as public speaking and debating clubs. Part-time volunteers have a teaching load of four to 16 hours per week, perfect for exchange students at Chilean universities.

Orientation and Spanish lessons

If you’re not familiar with Chile or are not fluent in Spanish, don’t worry! Upon arrival in Santiago, you will receive a comprehensive orientation before moving in with a host family in the community where you will be staying. You will also be given free access to health insurance, transportation and teaching materials. They also receive a monthly living allowance of US$120 (CLP 60,000).

Long-term volunteers can also choose to enroll in a two-month Spanish course before undertaking their volunteer work. The course costs US$1,000 with classes catering to beginners, intermediate and upper intermediate students.

Want more information? Check out the National Volunteer Center's website. There’s plenty of information and testimonials from previous participants that will surely inspire you. Don’t miss this opportunity to experience Chilean culture in-depth and give something back to the communities and places that you enjoy!

Going Local in Chile!

 People enjoying a "mote con huesillo" at San Cristóbal Hill, in Santiago.

© Marcela Torres

By Marcela Torres

Traditional tourism, sitting on a comfortable bus and taking pictures of the main landmarks of a place can certainly be fun and interesting. But there’s nothing better than going in deeper into the local culture of a destination and exploring off the beaten path. At least that’s what I try to do whenever I travel and what my company offers people who sign up for tours with us in Chile.

After years of working for several large inbound tour operators in Chile, first as guides and then in other office roles, my sister Paula and I realized that these companies all offered pretty much the same itineraries and destinations, including the same attractions (wineries, museums, etc.). But people were eager to try something different.

The first thing we learned was that most tourists were annoyed when we took them to a fancy jewelry store at the end of their city tour because they could tell that things were overpriced and they felt a pressure to buy. Now, we were forced to do this by the company, but since we were the ones with the angry customers, before we got to the shop we started asking them whether or not they wanted to go. Most of them said “no” and we learned that they preferred to visit a handicraft market where locals usually get their jewelry and where they could see the artisan at work.

Another thing we learned is that they really wanted to taste local food. So we started taking them to the places where we would go to with our families to have some “mote con huesillo”, for example, a traditional summer drink/dessert made of boiled dried peaches and barley, usually with molasses. Everybody loves it!

Once I had a group of British travelers that was worried because we would be visiting the Chilean-Argentinean border at 2,800 meters (9,186 feet) and they had never been at such altitudes. I told them that Andean peoples chewed coca leaves to avoid altitude sickness but that usually a coca tea would do the trick. Guess what? All they wanted was to taste the coca tea! So the driver and I arranged everything. We prepared a thermos with hot water and bought the coca tea bags. When we were half-way up, we stopped to drink it with the Andes Mountains as a backdrop and everybody enjoyed the moment. And no one got sick!

So, these unique experiences are what we try to offer in Chile. We love to take visitors around Santiago on the subway and they like getting a sense of how Chilean people move throughout the city -even if it’s on a packed train during the rush hour- and doing things that local people do.

With our tours to the countryside and the coast, as well as to other regions in Chile, we take visitors to places that are not usually on the radar for foreign tourists. Trekking with llamas in the Atacama Desert, enjoying a traditional meal cooked in a solar oven in the Elqui Valley, learning to make typical Chilean pastries in the Curacaví Valley, seeing how an artisan works with lapis lazuli and copper or just spending quality time with locals from north to south are all part of our offer.

That’s why we’re so thrilled to be part of The Local Travel Movement. We believe it makes a big difference to get a sense of what it’s like to move around, eat and live in a place like a local. It’s certainly enriching for both hosts and tourists and helps people better understand each other’s culture while also having fun and sharing an unforgettable moment. What more could you expect from a trip? Happy travels!

MyNatour Announces Ecotourism Blog Contest Winners!

By Marcela Torres

The long awaited day has come! MyNatour announced today the three winners of its Ecotourism Blog Contest. “The decision was very tough,” says MyNatour founder Davide Valin, “because we received hundreds of amazing entries from freezing Alaska to the Australian desert and everything in between. All of them had some interesting stories; falling in love on the road, biking as a kamikaze, crossing the cold dry deserts, fishing, sailing, surfing, farming, trekking, volunteering on the reef, getting lost in a metropolitan jungle or in the depth of the rain forest.”

After a period of public voting, the judging panel met up during the World Travel Market (WTM) trade show in London to assess make the final decision based on criteria such as creativity, originality, quality of writing, photography, ability to engage an audience (number of supporters) and, most importantly, the talent to inspire others to conserve nature and promote intercultural understanding.

And so, the final winners are:

I° A Garden Lady in India's Cold Mountain Desert (by Shivya)

“Because of the simple yet profound way the author combines several important aspects of what made this trip such a memorable experience: local encounters, education, and of course the natural beauty of the place.” - Ayako Ezaki

II° Reef to Rainforest (by Hobbers)

“How carefully they made a choice of the ecotourism experience they wanted to live through, and whether or not the experience was as rich an ecotourism experience as they thought it would be!” - Ethan Gelber

III° My Trip to Mali: Halt in Terya Bugu (by mariodifra)

“One of the most important things that we need to do when we go to some places is to get to know the place, learn about the place, learn about how they live, what is their culture, their logic and just follow the local logic.” - Aivar Runkel

The 3 winners will be able to choose out of 6 amazing ecotourism holidays for 2 people, courtesy of WHL.travel. Congratulations to all of them!

WRTD 2011: Tourism can help reduce poverty

Harriet Lamb during the WRTD 2011 opening ceremony at the WTM.

© Marcela Torres

By Marcela Torres

“We have the means and the responsibility to help the local communities of the places that we visit and empower them to overcome poverty,” said Fiona Jeffrey, Chairman of the WTM. She also dedicated some words to the many and often unknown industry champions, highlighting that there’s a growing number of people who are working day to day to protect our culture, defend our destinations, conserving biological diversity and contributing to secure the sustainability of our home, Earth.

The official opening speech for this fifth version of the WRTD was presented by Harriet Lamb, Executive Director of the Fairtrade Foundation. Lamb remembered that “twenty years ago, when I started talking about paying fair prices to small farmers for their coffee many people laughed at me saying nobody would be willing to pay more to help people sustain their livelihoods. Well, they’re not laughing now!”

Actually the fair-trade movement has expanded throughout the world and more and more consumers are demanding products with a fair-trade certification. And it’s not just about coffee farmers. The concept applies to all kinds of products and trade areas. Lamb said that 50% of consumers in the United Kingdom, for example, are willing to pay more for a product that is certified as fair-trade.

“And the good thing is that it also makes sense for the businesses,” Lamb said. “Think about it. A large supermarket chain that sold some excellent chocolate actually made the connection while talking to us and they realized that if they did not pay their cocoa farmers well enough, those people would run out of business and they wouldn’t have farmers to supply them cocoa beans to produce their chocolate bars. No beans, no bars. It’s that simple!”

That commercial advantage has also been understood by several tourism companies who are not only paying fairly to their suppliers but also –in many cases- have gone a step further and set up foundations to support education, conservation and even tap water community projects throughout the world.

There is much to be achieved still, however, and Fiona Jeffrey made a call to the entire tourism industry to hop on to the responsible tourism wagon: “This is not just a cultish craze or the latest in-vogue trend to be replaced with something else in a year or two. Increasing numbers of consumers are recognizing that the world –or the industry for that matter- cannot go on in the way it has since mass tourism first came into being.”With more than 300 delegates from all over the world, the World Responsible Tourism Day 2011 was celebrated yesterday at the World Travel Market (WTM) in London, stressing the unique opportunity the tourism industry has in helping reduce poverty throughout the planet.

Observing Whales and Dolphins

Whale watching at Francisco Coloane Marine Park.

© Feel Patagonia

By Marcela Torres

As the summer season approaches, the fascination for whales and dolphins attracts many tourists in search for a close encounter with this charismatic fauna. The activity has benefits and risks, however, and it is necessary to take some precautions to enjoy it responsibly.

Throughout Chile there are 18 dolphin species. The Chilean Dolphin (Cephalorhynchus eutropia) is found in shallow coastal waters, while the Bottle-Nosed Dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) is one of the most popular and easiest to see, particularly in the surroundings of the Damas and Choros islands in the North.

Whales can also be seen, mainly in southern Chile, where you can find Rorquals, Southern Right Whales, Sperm Whales and Humpback Whales (Megaptera novaeangliae). This species, one of the most fascinating, has an important feeding site in the waters surrounding the Francisco Coloane Marine Park, in southern Chile.

 

To ensure that a cetacean observation experience is fun and safe both for the animals and tourists, the following measures need to be in place:

• Keep a minimum distance of 100 meters (328 feet) from the animal that is closest to the boat
• The speed of boats while approaching and leaving the area should be constant and not exceed 4 knots
• The time of observation for each boat should not be more than 30 minutes
• Don’t ask your guide to chase the dolphins or whales and don’t try to touch them
• When the observation is over, the departure from the site should be carried out slowly and in the opposite direction of the movement of the whales or dolphins

It is important to keep in mind that dolphins and whales at sea are wild animals and we should not modify their way of life or behavior. That’s why it’s so important to avoid stroking them or establishing any sort of unnatural contact and that contributes to modifying their behavioral patterns, for example, getting used to close interactions with humans.

If we follow these guidelines, we will probably live an unforgettable responsible tourism experience.

May I Take a Picture of You?

Quechua weaver in Cusco, Peru.

© Marcela Torres

By Marcela Torres

Meeting people from other countries and cultures is part of the magic of traveling. We often encounter charming people that share their traditions with us and we can’t resist the temptation of capturing that moment with our photographic cameras. This enthusiastic impulse, however, may sometimes cause an unexpected negative reaction.

Several authors warn against the danger of the “tourist gaze”. What are they talking about? Sometimes people from the local community may feel they are being seen as objects; something weird or amazing that must be observed.

In addition, it is no myth that several tribes and indigenous cultures in Latin America reject photographs for several reasons, including the belief that these would steal their soul. From northern Mexico to southern Chile there are many accounts of communities that fear or distrust cameras and the intentions of the people that carry them.

A professional photographer remembers the time he arrived unannounced with some friends at a small town in the Sierra Central in Mexico and was suddenly surrounded by children who were attracted by their “curious” garments and attitudes. But the party ended the moment he took out his camera and aimed at the children, who ran away terrified.

At Ciudad Perdida (Lost City), in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta in Colombia, due to religious and cultural reasons, people of indigenous origin avoid having pictures taken of themselves, their homes and their objects. Tourists are warned not to insist in order not to make locals uncomfortable by invading their privacy.

The Mapuches, who live in southern Chile and Argentina, also reject photographs. To them, an image has a spirit and if someone captures it that person takes something away from them. This belief has presented a challenge to documentary producers, who always must give signs of respect in order to gain their trust and obtain their footage. Nevertheless, artists often just shoot photos or videos, promising to come back and give a copy, but never show again. It is important to understand that the Mapuches will always ask (and sometimes demand) a token of the time they gave away a piece of their soul. On a few occasions, people have been so offended by being photographed that they have broken tourists’ cameras.

The case of Italian scientist Guido Boggiani is, no doubt, the most extreme. Boggiani lived many years with the Caduveo tribe in Paraguay and was obsessed with body paintings and tattoos, shooting more than 500 photographs that he developed in the middle of the jungle. He was murdered in 1902, when he was 40 years old, and –although it is not really known for certain- it is believed that the motive was his photographic activity, since the expedition that went looking for him found his remains buried with his camera in pieces. After his death, a colleague of his published a series of 100 postcards of this Paraguayan tribe, which included a selection of 12 nude photos especially captured for scientists.

Of course, nowadays it is highly unlikely that anyone will threaten you with death just because you took a picture of them, but it is still worthwhile to avoid an unpleasant situation and show respect for the other person by asking a simple question: “May I take a picture of you?”

Indigenous Communities and Tourism: The Benefits of Co-Management

Lickan Antay Guide at the Soncor Sector of Los Flamencos National Reserve.

© Hernán Torres

by Marcela Torres

Co-management of protected areas by the State and local communities is one of the best ways to guarantee that tourism will provide economic and social benefits to many people who would otherwise be marginalized, at the same time that it ensures protection for the environment on which these communities rely on for their income. An excellent example is the Soncor Sector of Los Flamencos National Reserve, in the Atacama Desert of the Antofagasta Region, in northern Chile.

Los Flamencos National Reserve is located within the Atacama La Grande Indigenous Development Area, which was established in 1997 to promote sustainable development of the ancient territories of the Lickan Antay peoples. Since then, the Lickan Antay communities have strengthened their ancient rights to use the resources, in many cases using traditional ways and in others, applying modern natural resource management techniques.

When the National Forestry Corporation (CONAF) began charging entrance fees to visit the Reserve, at the begining of the 2000 decade, the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao cut off the road to access Laguna Chaxa, in the Soncor Sector, to demand that tourism, carried out in their ancient territories, would also benefit the descendants of this ethnic group that live in this nearby town. Their action brought about a revision of the plan and CONAF and the Lickan Antay communities signed co-management agreements for four of the seven sectors of the Reserve: Soncor, Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons, Moon Valley and Tambillo.

Income generated from the entrance fees to these sites, which attract national and foreign visitors, has allowed the communities to strengthen programs to aid elderly and disabled people in their communities. At the same time, a significant amount of these incomes is invested in the management of each sector and staff salaries. The inclusion of local community personnel in the management of these sectors has allowed CONAF to redirect its staff to sectors and activities that were previously left largely unattended do to the lack of personnel and resources that affects the institution.

First Sustainable Visitor Center

Because of the increasing interest shown by tourists arriving from the nearby town of San Pedro de Atacama, the community decided to improve the site’s infrastructure and visitor information. To that end, in 2006, it partnered with CONAF and SQM mining company, which exploits lithium in the Atacama Salt Flat, to develop the first sustainable Visitor Center in a protected area in the country.

The project included the architectural design and construction of the Visitor Center, incorporating techniques such as reuse of grey water and electricity generation through solar panels and wind mills. The roads were also repaired and the parking lot expanded.

At the same time, a group of local guides was trained, all of them members of the Lickan Antay Community of Toconao, in interpretation techniques, to convey effectively to visitors the natural and cultural values of the area. To support this, 5 bilingual signs were developed for the interpretive trail and 18 for the inner hall of the Center. A documentary video was also produced, in Spanish with English subtitles, to complement information provided to visitors.

The results could not have been better. Visitors to Laguna Chaxa comment that it is a pleasure to pay an entrance fee because you can see that the revenues are invested in the people and in improving the place, where you no longer find garbage lying around and there is good infrastructure. In addition, tourism has provided local people with a new source of income and each day more and more Lickan Antay Community members seek training to be part of the benefits of responsible tourism.

World Tourism Day: Bringing Cultures Together

by Marcela Torres

Each year, on September 27, the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) celebrates World Tourism Day, with the purpose fostering awareness among the international community of the importance of tourism and its social, cultural, political and economic value. In 2011, the celebrations are focusing on tourism and bringing cultures together.

According to the UNWTO, in 2010, 940 million tourists travelled to a different country, coming into direct contact with tangible – art, monuments – and intangible – music, food, traditions – culture. World Tourism Day 2011 (WTD 2011) is a celebration of this unique interaction and aims at furthering understanding of the values of cultural diversity.

“The message on this World Tourism Day is that, thanks to tourism, millions of people from different cultures are being brought together around the world like never before,” says UNWTO Secretary-General, Taleb Rifai. “This interaction between people of different backgrounds and ways of life represents an enormous opportunity to advance tolerance, respect and mutual understanding”.

WTD 2011 also draws attention to the importance of preserving and promoting the cultures of the world in all their forms. Culture, which compels millions of tourists to travel and spend, is of immense value in itself, but is also a vital tool for the development of a sustainable tourism sector. As such, it must be thoughtfully managed and protected, as set out in the Global Code of Ethics for Tourism which states that: “Tourism policies and activities should be conducted with respect for the artistic, archaeological and cultural heritage, which they should protect and pass on to future generations”.

Ancient cultures in Chile

In Chile, the State acknowledges and Chilean indigenous peoples are the descendants of human populations that have been present in the national territory since Pre-Hispanic times, that conserve ethnic and cultural traditions and have the land as the basis for their existence and culture.

The State acknowledges the following as Chile’s main ethnic groups: Mapuche, Aymara, Rapa Nui or Easter Islanders, those of the Atacama or Lickan Antay communities, Quechuas and Collas in northern Chile, and the Kaweshkar or Alacalufe and Yamana or Yagan in the southern fjords.

According to the last census carried out in Chile in 2002, 4.6% of the interviewees identified themselves with one of these ethnic groups. Of these, the majority (87.3%) declared to be descendent of the Mapuches. They are followed by the Aymaras (7%) and the Lickan Antay (3%). The rest (Colla, Rapa Nui, Quechua, Yamana and Alacalufe) add up to 2.7%.

Protecting cultural wealth

Tourism is an economic sector based on human interaction, exchange and dialogue. WTD 2011 is a call to all those involved in tourism to act in a way that is conscious and respectful of culture, which promotes intercultural dialogue and ensures that local communities fully participate in, and benefit from, the development opportunities of tourism.

 “Culture is one of our most precious assets and needs protecting. As we launch World Tourism Day 2011, I call on all people to conduct tourism in a way that preserves and enriches the cultural wealth of the world for future generations,” says Mr. Rifai.

Be careful with that bonfire!

Torres del Paine National Park.

© Hernán Torres

by Marcela Torres

All over the world there are protected areas of great natural beauty and we need to be careful not to damage them when we visit so that they can be enjoyed by future generations. Fire out of control is one of the greatest risk factors, particularly in forests and grasslands.

In February, 2005 a forest fire that lasted 10 days in Torres del Paine National Park destroyed more than 13,000 hectares (32,000 acres), approximately 7% of its area. The cause was the inflammation of a gas stove a Czech tourist used in a grassland area where camping was not authorized. The disaster was such that the Czech Republic quickly offered help to restore the damaged sectors and sent Czech experts. The forest cooperation project “Assistance to renew Torres del Paine National Park ecosystems damaged by the fire” ended in December, 2010. It ran for five years and included forestation with 180,000 Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio) plants.

Torres del Paine National Park is one of the nature tourism icons in Chile. Located in the Chilean Patagonia, it covers a total of 181,414 hectares (448,284 acres) and is among the preferred worldwide destinations for trekking, particularly for its famous W circuit. In 1978 it was declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, because it is among the most representative regions of the different ecosystems in the world that also provide opportunities to measure human impacts on the environment.

The rock formations known as the “towers of Paine”, the Grey and Dickson glaciers, the numerous waterfalls and lakes and its abundant wildlife, that includes endangered species such as the Condor, the Puma and the Huemul deer, are among the main attractions of this protected area. After the 2005 fire, it was believed that tourists would have learned about the importance of staying in the areas set aside for visitors.

However, in February, 2011 a new fire was again cause for grief. An Israeli tourist that lit a bonfire in an unauthorized area initiated another fire that did not have the same catastrophic consequences as the previous one because the rain that was falling helped control the flames. The tourist was expelled from the National Park and declared an unwelcome visitor because of his irresponsibility.

The National Forestry Corporation (CONAF), the government agency in charge of managing protected areas in Chile, has clear regulations for visitors that can be downloaded from the website in Spanish and English. It seems worthwhile to be reminded of some of them to make sure that we act as responsible tourists when visiting a natural area:

• Follow the instructions given by the park rangers, including times for visiting, signs and maintenance of facilities in the Protected Wilderness Area.
• Follow rules for safety. Walk only along marked trails and roads. In case you are planning a long hike, do not go alone, and take the appropriate equipment and clothes. Inform the park rangers about the route and time of return of your trip.
• Make fires only in the places provided for doing so. After making a fire, put it out using large amounts of water. Wildfires and people with a careless attitude are always a potential danger to nature.

Now that the high season for tourism in Chile is approaching, we hope we will not have to witness a new fire in Torres del Paine National Park. Conserving our wonderful natural heritage for future generations is a task for all of us.

A “gringo’s” guide to Chilean food

Mote con huesillo, pastel de choclo and empanada.

© Hernán Torres

by Robert Bell

If wining and dining is your forte, Chile will not disappoint. And what better way is there to celebrate Chile’s Independence Day holiday on September 18^th than feasting on traditional delicacies?  The smell of shish kabobs (anticuchos) sizzling on the grill at a Patriotic Party (Fonda) on a sunny day is a fondly memorable experience. In fact, September is one of the best times to be in Chile as the weather heats up and the atmosphere becomes festive. There is plenty to do and see, and of course, to eat.

As a “gringo” living in Chile I’ve come to appreciate traditional dishes such as pastel de choclo (a baked pie filled with meat, hard-boiled egg, onion, and olives topped with a crispy layer of mashed corn) and my personal favorite charquican (a hearty stew with beef, squash, potatoes, and green beans). They are both unique and delicious. Chile also offers plenty of great seafood, especially in the scenic and popular summer vacation stop, Viña del Mar. Crab cakes, razor clams with melted cheese, shrimp-filled avocado, and sea bass are all fantastic selections on the menu. Empanadas, which come in a variety of styles, from the typical pino filled with beef, to chicken and shrimp with cheese, are a popular Independence Day dish.          

Chileans also have a sweet tooth, and some of their traditional desserts are simply addictive, like pastries filled with jam and glazed with merengue. Manjar (boiled canned condensed milk) is a brown, creamy spread that is liberally applied to just about anything, from donuts to cheese. And as the weather starts to heat up, the thirst-quenching mote con huesillo (a juice made with dried peaches and wheat) is a refreshing multi-tasking dessert/hot day beverage served chilled.    

And speaking of drinks, Chileans are proud of their pisco brandy, which can be bought with different alcoholic percentages ranging 30% to 50% and is usually served sour, and beer (the latter more average than great). However, Chilean wine is quite possibly one of the best; Chile has grape varieties, like Carmenére that aren’t found anywhere else in the world.

For many, Independence Day isn’t complete without some Chicha, a light and very sweet grape cider which has more alcohol than wine. It is an acquired taste for the uninitiated; I have met Chileans who don’t like it either. So after feasting on some typical Chilean cuisine, there’s really only one thing left to do: would you care to join me to dance the Cueca?

To climb or not to climb Uluru…

Uluru, Northern Territory, Australia.

© http://www.new7wonders.com/

by Marcela Torres

Only a couple of months are left to vote for the New 7 Wonders of Nature. Among the favorite places featured in this initiative is the Australian Aboriginal sacred site Uluru –also known as Ayers Rock-, one of the country’s most recognizable natural icons. The time seems right to ponder over a question that has for decades been the subject of a much heated debate: Should tourists be allowed to climb the rock or not? Respecting indigenous cultures and local traditions is at the core of the responsible tourism concept and it is the center of the controversy over Uluru.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site -located 450 kilometers (280 miles) west of Alice Springs, in the state of the Northern Territory- is climbed by more than 100,000 people every year. The sandstone formation stands 348 m (1,142 ft) high above sea level and measures 9.4 km (5.8 miles) in circumference. Those who have been fortunate enough to visit the site, say Uluru appears to change color depending on how light strikes it at different times of the day and year.

But the popular climb of the monolith has long enraged local Aboriginals, the Anangu people. Under Aboriginal law, they are responsible for protecting Uluru and its visitors. They say the site is sacred and have called for the climb to be banned since Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park was placed in their hands in 1985.

The Anangu people believe that during the time when the world was being formed, the Uluru climb was the traditional route taken by ancestral men when they arrived at Uluru. Because of this spiritual significance, they prefer that - out of education and understanding - visitors respect their law and culture by not climbing.

Safety is also an issue. The path is about 1.6 km long and takes about two hours to complete. Since it can be treacherous, the first part has a chain to hold on to. It is reported that 36 people have died and many more have been injured attempting the climb, something that worries traditional owners.

There are environmental concerns as well. Park officials say the climbing path has been worn down by the constant tread of tourists and erosion is changing the face of Uluru. The lack of toilets and garbage cans on top also means tourists leave behind waste that is affecting nearby waterholes.

Money is the matter

The park estimates that around 38 percent of visitors climb each year, down from 74 per cent in 1990. Even so, tour operators in the region continue to offer the climb as the main attraction of the visit to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and they often do not inform clients of the cultural and spiritual significance of the place. The first time many tourists hear, "Please don't climb Uluru" is when they read their entry ticket.

The market demands it, people want to climb, and since there is no law against climbing Uluru Ayers Rock, many companies continue to feature the same popular offerings: sunrise, climb, sunset.

Until now, the national park’s management has employed a strategy of visitor education to face this issue, with interpretive signs expressing the distress that climbing causes the local owners and asking that visitors participate in alternative activities. However, changes in attitudes and behaviors of visitors usually take place in the long term and sometimes it is necessary to apply more direct management techniques such as banning an activity to ensure the conservation of the natural attraction and ensure that tourists will show the necessary respect.

In 2009, the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Board of Management took the initiative in drafting a 10 year management plan recommending closure of the climb, highlighting that the activity is culturally insensitive. Although the measure did not have strong political support, climbing Uluru has its days counted anyway.

Under the terms of the lease the Anangu elders granted in 1985 to the National Parks Service, the right to climb expires in 2020, and the national park is currently recruiting a professional to oversee the closure of the climb. If the climb is permitted beyond this date, the lease would have to be renegotiated.

Some industry stakeholders argue that the prohibition could lead to reduced visitor numbers and that it would have serious financial implications for the Anangu, who receive 22.5 per cent of all gate receipts and have sole rights to undertake commercial activity within the National Park.

There are several attractive alternatives, however, of tours within the park with activities that do not upset the traditional owners. Tours include walking expeditions to explore rock formations and Aboriginal art sites around the base, escorted by local guides and an interpreter. Visitors learn about myths of creation, bush foods, traditional didgeridoo-playing, dot-painting and spear-throwing.

A brochure available at the Cultural Center in the park carries an important message from the Anangu elders:

“That is a really important sacred thing that you are climbing . . . You shouldn’t climb. It is not the real thing about this place. The real thing is listening to everything. Listening and understanding everything. Why are we going to tell you to go away (and ask you not to climb)? So that you understand this . . . so that you understand, we are informing you: Don’t climb. And maybe that makes you a bit sad. But any way, that is what we have to say. We are obliged to say. And all the tourists will brighten up and say: ‘Oh, I see. This is the right way. This is the thing that is right.’

This is the proper way: No climbing.”