A “gringo’s” guide to Chilean food

Mote con huesillo, pastel de choclo and empanada.

© Hernán Torres

by Robert Bell

If wining and dining is your forte, Chile will not disappoint. And what better way is there to celebrate Chile’s Independence Day holiday on September 18^th than feasting on traditional delicacies?  The smell of shish kabobs (anticuchos) sizzling on the grill at a Patriotic Party (Fonda) on a sunny day is a fondly memorable experience. In fact, September is one of the best times to be in Chile as the weather heats up and the atmosphere becomes festive. There is plenty to do and see, and of course, to eat.

As a “gringo” living in Chile I’ve come to appreciate traditional dishes such as pastel de choclo (a baked pie filled with meat, hard-boiled egg, onion, and olives topped with a crispy layer of mashed corn) and my personal favorite charquican (a hearty stew with beef, squash, potatoes, and green beans). They are both unique and delicious. Chile also offers plenty of great seafood, especially in the scenic and popular summer vacation stop, Viña del Mar. Crab cakes, razor clams with melted cheese, shrimp-filled avocado, and sea bass are all fantastic selections on the menu. Empanadas, which come in a variety of styles, from the typical pino filled with beef, to chicken and shrimp with cheese, are a popular Independence Day dish.          

Chileans also have a sweet tooth, and some of their traditional desserts are simply addictive, like pastries filled with jam and glazed with merengue. Manjar (boiled canned condensed milk) is a brown, creamy spread that is liberally applied to just about anything, from donuts to cheese. And as the weather starts to heat up, the thirst-quenching mote con huesillo (a juice made with dried peaches and wheat) is a refreshing multi-tasking dessert/hot day beverage served chilled.    

And speaking of drinks, Chileans are proud of their pisco brandy, which can be bought with different alcoholic percentages ranging 30% to 50% and is usually served sour, and beer (the latter more average than great). However, Chilean wine is quite possibly one of the best; Chile has grape varieties, like Carmenére that aren’t found anywhere else in the world.

For many, Independence Day isn’t complete without some Chicha, a light and very sweet grape cider which has more alcohol than wine. It is an acquired taste for the uninitiated; I have met Chileans who don’t like it either. So after feasting on some typical Chilean cuisine, there’s really only one thing left to do: would you care to join me to dance the Cueca?